The Echoes of Yesteryear: A Carnival through Time

Every year, Fort Cochin rings in the New Year’s Day with the rhythm of music, the colours of tradition, and the vibrant hum of over a hundred thousand people. Our beloved carnival isn’t just an event—it’s a celebration of the spirit of this town, a mosaic of history, culture, and shared joy.

But this year, the carnival arrived with a softer stride. Postponed to honour the passing of our honourable Ex-Prime Minister, Dr. Manmohan Singh, the day carried a solemnity that whispered through the streets.

I found myself sitting on the steps of a pharmacy at Kunnumpuram, waiting for the tableau to make its way as the evening grew long and the tropical winter coolness breezed in. Around me, the usual crowd was thinner, the buzz quieter, and the laughter more subdued. An elderly German couple was sitting beside me on the steps, the lady who was very enthusiastic about the events went out onto the road where the Carnival Procession was walking by and came back to her husband and told him very excitedly what she saw in their language. Her joy was contagious and made me nostalgically think about all those tourists who have been here from different countries on the New Year’s Day over the years.

 In the previous years the New Years day would make all the roads of our Old town lead to Fort Cochin, her narrow streets brimming with tourists, visitors and local residents their awe blending seamlessly with the exuberance of locals. The fragrance of freshly cooked delicacies, the burst of colourful energy from street performers, and the joy of togetherness all felt like distant echoes of a time gone by.

This year’s carnival wasn’t as lively, but perhaps it was a reminder—a gentle nudge to cherish the traditions that bind us and the memories that shape us. Even in its quieter form, not many years far from the shutdown nothingness of the Corona Years, the carnival held its charm, grounding me in a moment of reflection amidst the waiting crowd.

As the tableau finally came into view, its colours and music reminded me that while times change and moments pass, Fort Cochin’s heart beats steadily, carrying forward the legacy of countless New Year celebrations and the memories of folks who visited and those who lived here since Vasco Da Gama died  500 years ago  on the Christmas eve  of 1524.

The carnival may have been quieter this year, but its spirit endures—etched into the soul of this town and into the hearts of all who have walked these streets.

November 30

A lone candle burning at a cemetery of a church in Kochi.

Some of the churches had some events planned on the end of November 30th. The month is marked for remembering the dead in many of the churches. All Saints & All Souls Day at the beginning of the month, then the Remembrance Day and in some countries the Thanks Giving Day. In a historical Coastal town like Fort Cohin/Kochi, where thousands of people from different countries had visited over the centuries for various reasons, many of them lay buried here. As the month of November passes, we remember gratefully all those who had brought a positive change to our people thoughts and lives. May you all Rest in Peace.

Remembrance Day

November 11th

Durham Miners' Banners

Durham Miners’ Gala

Solidarity forever! Banners of the Durham mining community.

Commemorating the 40th anniversary of the Miners’ strike of 1984-85 and celebrating the continuity, solidarity of the Durham Mining Communities a colorful selection of the banners from the region’s many Union Lodges were displayed at the Durham Cathedral recently.

Banners are described as the regimental colors of the National Union of Mineworkers. Banners were proudly carried at the Miners celebrations, protests and other events. Banners are made of silk and hand painted on both sides to display the name of their colliery lodge, along with other religious or political images. Many banners are still in use with their communities and are paraded through the streets of Durham on Gala day in July. They are joined by the banners of other trade Unions and groups linked to the mining communities such as the Women’s Support Groups.

The North East of England has a long history of coal mining. Centuries ago coal was used by the Romans while they occupied England. Mining activity is recorded in the Boldon book of 1183. Durham and the cathedral were at the heart of coal mining activity in the region, the industry endured for more than 9 centuries.

John Doyle’s ‘A cross in Coal’ emotionally expresses the sentiments in literary works of the time:

 ‘For here beneath dear Durham Skies live men, I understood, bound fast in friendship by the ties of pitman brotherhood…”

The Miners’ Gala started as a demonstration of Miners Solidarity to make their employers aware that they were united and would stand up for their rights. It was held every year and over the decades ‘the big meeting’ became the largest unofficial miners and trade union gathering in the UK.

Eventually the deep mines in the North East of England were closed but the Gala has survived as the Region’s mining heritage and attracting tens of thousands of visitors to Durham in July the month in which the Gala is held every year. It symbolizes celebration of a community, international solidarity and working class life.

On the afternoon of the Gala day a Miners’ Festival Service has been held at the Durham Cathedral. New Union and Lodge Banners are dedicated and blessed by the Bishop of Durham.

The pictures and information was sent to us by Ms.Catherine Henderson a Durham resident who has never missed a Gala of the last few decades. She took the Fort Cochin Heritage Walk in 2017 and has stayed a friend since. 

Muchillotu Devi

Perinchellore was an old town famous for its scholarly Brahmans who were very good in the knowledge of Vedas, grammar, literature, astrology, medicine etc.. Scholars from all over came to Perinchellore to debate with the Brahmans there to test their own erudition. One such family in Perinchellore was Rayaramangalam. It so happened with them that the latest generation had no male heirs to continue their family lineage. They prayed to their family goddess by offering special Puja. Soon they got a daughter but not a son. Sensing a divine intervention the parents accepted her gratefully and named DeviKanya. They brought her up giving her the best they had including education.

The girl grew up to be a scholar, naturally,  and her erudition spread among the scholarly circle of  the area in spite of being a girl. It was the custom at that time for the Brahman girls to be married off at the age of 12. Devi's parents proposed her the marriage and she agreed but on one condition. She will marry the man who will defeat her in a scholarly debate. Her parents had to agree and the marriage day was fixed.

Many scholars came from far and wide both young and old. For two days nobody could defeat Devi. This was a blow to the Scholars of Perinchellore to be defeated and that too by a girl. For her parents she was a divine child but for others she was a mere girl who has to be shown her place in the world. So on the third day they deliberately guided the debate to the topic of Rasas which are the human feelings. They asked her which is the most significant of the Rasas to which Devi correctly replied as Sringara or erotic love. Then the scholars asked which is the most painful of the Rasas. Devi had no hesitation in saying it is the pain of child birth experienced by women.

The Brahman scholars were enraged. They asked how can a virgin know all these feelings without experiencing it. They felt she is not a kanya (Virgin) and proclaimed the punishment due to such a woman for the innocent Devi. She was outclassed and expelled from the community.

Though heartbroken, her parents could not do anything against the decision of the community. Devi walked away from her house, her village and went straight to the temple at EachiKulangara and entered into a deep meditative prayer of forty days. At the end of it she woke up with the realization that she had to leave her body to prove her innocence. At the Brahma Muhurtham, that is thirty six minutes before sun rise she prayed her final prayer and went to a place called Karivellore and made herself  a pyre and jumped into the fire after taking off one of her anklet and leaving it near the pyre.

Alas! The fire was not enough to burn her body completely as it lost its flame midway. After a while a coconut tree climber from the lower caste was passing by carrying some dry fronds and Devi called out to him asking him to put the dry palm leaves into her fire. The man was frightened by the terrific site, he ran away without looking back.

Next came that way a man from the Muchilottu community. Another lower caste community who deal in oil which was more important than electricity in those days. Devi asked him to pour the oil  that he was carrying in a pot into her pyre. Though terrified the man sensed a certain divinity in the stoic Devi and poured oil into the fire hoping it would put off the fire. Instead the fire was set ablaze again and the Devi disappeared into it after blessing him. From then on the Devi has been deified as the Goddess of the Muchillottu community and celebrated as Theyyam every year to this day.

New Year @ Fort Cochin

Traditionally, on New year day, everyone around Kochi goes to the Fort and the beach near it. That is an unbroken tradition. Our most colorful memories of childhood are around this Cochin ritual. 

This year though, the spirit was glum with Cyclone Ockhi and its disastrous aftermath. The authorities who run the Carnival had to shift the venue to Parade ground from the beach as there was no beach this year. The high tide and the rising sea after the storm had taken over the beach which used to be the venue for many events of the Christmas and New year Celebration at the fort. 

Burning of the Pappanji at the Parade Ground on New year eve, the last event of the year. 

Ofcourse, the children got the best view. :)

Tourists finding vantage points on their hotel walls for better photo opportunity of the carnival procession. 

The long evening lights keeping the spirits up on the New year evening at River Road, Fort Cochin. 

All around the Fort streets locals and tourist were waiting patiently for the carnival procession to arrive. 

Christmas @ Fort Cochin

Christmas is the most happiest time of the year at the Fort. It has always been so. The joy, the hope and the feeling of well being is lit with stars and lights all around the Fort. It's also the peak time of tourism. The best of the home made wines and cakes are served in the houses during Christmas. The home stays of Fort Cochin exude a special charm during the season. 

The week preceding the Christmas week saw shops selling Christmas gifts and lamps all over the place. The china made beautiful lights and stars were the main attraction. 

Merry Christmas Everyone. 

Christmas carol service at St. Francis Church

The notice announcing the Carol Service was put up outside the church weeks earlier. For hundreds of tourists who visit our historic church everyday, the advance notice was very helpful.

This year's Christmas carol service was conducted at St. Francis church yesterday on 17th December, 2017 at 6pm.

Beautifully printed Carol Service notes, with songs and readings markers.

The service was lead by Rev. N.K Prasad, the resident Chaplain and the message was delivered by Rev. Dr. David Joy.

The choir which was the soul of the evening included both the junior and senior members of the CSI church.

The carol service at this historic church was attended by not only the parishioners but also all the history enthusiasts and the tourists who were in town. The first ever catholic Christmas in India was celebrated in this very church in the first decade of 1500's.

The occasion marked the beginning of the Christmas celebration in the erstwhile fort in its true spirit.

Beautiful evening, wonderful memory when our old church came back to life again. 

Kochi Muziris Biennale 2014

As Historians and those who share the history of Fort Cochin with many who visit Fort Cochin everyday, Kochi Muziris Biennale is a pleasant surprise and joy for us. The event has put Kochi back in the lime light as it was when it was termed as "Emporium of the world" by travellers in the early centuries. KMB foundation has made Kochi the art emporium which everyone is talking about and visiting. The first few days so so many artists, writers, scholars and many visitors at the venue and all of them are just happy as we are about the way Kochi has become the platform for the contemplations on history and finding a new language to express it.

Wonderful effort KMB foundation. Congratulations team KMB. We love our Biennale.

World Tourism Day 2014

Kerala remains the most literate state. Our effort to educate everyone in the state started very early. Fort Cochin Heritage Walkers, infront of Santa Cruz High School, which was started in the year 1888 at #FortCochin. 

Our first walk on the world Tourism Day of 2014 was a learning experience for us indeed. We got a lot of helpful tips and advice from our walkers who were very enthusiastic travellers who have explored our country  very well and has travelled abroad and has been part of many heritage walks in different parts of the world. 

We gladly acknowledge their good heart and experience they shared with us happily.