Ecce Homo

On a Sunday early morning, I rode my scooter across town to visit an elderly gentleman who lives alone.

When I reached, he smiled kindly but said it was too early for him, and asked if we could meet another time.

So I turned back—not disappointed, just unhurried—and made my way to the jetty. From there, I took a junkar boat across the Cochin ship channel toward Vallarpadam.

It was then that I noticed a board announcing the exposition of the centuries-old Ecce Homo—a special grace offered during Lent.

History came alive in that moment. In 1663, when the Dutch conquest of Cochin drove out the Portuguese from Fort Cochin, the Catholic community was forced to flee. They carried with them their altar and the revered Ecce Homo, taking refuge across the waters at the Our Lady of Hope Church.

Most likely, this remains one of the oldest living devotions connected to the first European Catholic church in India.

And I could not help but think—had the gentleman received me that morning, I would have missed this grace entirely.

All Souls Day

Today we remember not only our own dear departed ones, but also those who once walked the streets of old Cochin over the past five centuries, under a foreign sky.  

They came to this coast with hope — some bearing the cross, some the compass, some the dream of a better world. Many labored with honesty, taught, healed, served, and died far from their homeland, leaving behind no stone, no family name, no lighted candle to mark their rest.

  Here, in this place of tides and ships, we remember them too — the souls without descendants, builders without monuments, believers without names.  

May the sea that carried them be gentle to their memory. May the light of God, whom they sought in their own way, shine upon them now and forever.  

Every life, named or forgotten, has left a trace in the soil beneath us. To remember them is not an act of sorrow, but of gratitude; a quiet acknowledgment that we are the living continuation of their prayers, their courage, and their unfinished hope.  

Without them, there is no us — no language upon our tongue, no road beneath our feet, no faith carried in our hearts.  

"Eternal rest grant unto them, O Lord, and let perpetual light shine upon them. May they rest in peace. Amen."

All Saints Day

All Saints’ Day is the special day each year when the church honors those who have lived truly saintly lives

whether they are recognized, canonized, or simply known to God alone. It is a day to remember not only famous heroes of faith but also the quiet souls who served with love and dedication. Living a holy life is not a matter of ambition or status but a daily commitment that brings inner peace and joy. On this day, candles are lit not only for those in heaven but also as a gentle reminder that we can cultivate peace and joy here on earth, in our hearts. Each candle sparks hope and inspires us to follow their example in every moment of our own lives.

362 years and still waiting for their Masters..

Fort Cochin, with its cobblestone streets and colonial-era architecture, holds stories that transcend time. Among them is the tale of the Kappiri—a symbol of resilience, history, and remembrance.

During the Portuguese rule, enslaved Africans, locally called Kappiri, were brought to the Malabar Coast. These individuals lived through immense hardship, shaping the region’s history in ways often overlooked. When the Dutch seized Fort Cochin in 1663, folklore says that wealthy Portuguese buried their treasures underground. To protect these riches, they reportedly buried their loyal Kappiri guards alongside, tying their spirits to the land forever.

Far from being seen as ominous, the Kappiri are remembered with respect and even reverence. Small shrines, known as Kappiri Muthappan, still stand across Fort Cochin. Locals light candles at these shrines, honoring the memory of those who lived and suffered in a tumultuous era.

The story of the Kappiri isn’t just about loss—it’s about resilience and the deep layers of history that make Fort Cochin what it is today. It’s a reminder of the lives and cultures that shaped this land and the importance of acknowledging their stories.

Have you ever visited one of these shrines or heard about the Kappiri? 

The Echoes of Yesteryear: A Carnival through Time

Every year, Fort Cochin rings in the New Year’s Day with the rhythm of music, the colours of tradition, and the vibrant hum of over a hundred thousand people. Our beloved carnival isn’t just an event—it’s a celebration of the spirit of this town, a mosaic of history, culture, and shared joy.

But this year, the carnival arrived with a softer stride. Postponed to honour the passing of our honourable Ex-Prime Minister, Dr. Manmohan Singh, the day carried a solemnity that whispered through the streets.

I found myself sitting on the steps of a pharmacy at Kunnumpuram, waiting for the tableau to make its way as the evening grew long and the tropical winter coolness breezed in. Around me, the usual crowd was thinner, the buzz quieter, and the laughter more subdued. An elderly German couple was sitting beside me on the steps, the lady who was very enthusiastic about the events went out onto the road where the Carnival Procession was walking by and came back to her husband and told him very excitedly what she saw in their language. Her joy was contagious and made me nostalgically think about all those tourists who have been here from different countries on the New Year’s Day over the years.

 In the previous years the New Years day would make all the roads of our Old town lead to Fort Cochin, her narrow streets brimming with tourists, visitors and local residents their awe blending seamlessly with the exuberance of locals. The fragrance of freshly cooked delicacies, the burst of colourful energy from street performers, and the joy of togetherness all felt like distant echoes of a time gone by.

This year’s carnival wasn’t as lively, but perhaps it was a reminder—a gentle nudge to cherish the traditions that bind us and the memories that shape us. Even in its quieter form, not many years far from the shutdown nothingness of the Corona Years, the carnival held its charm, grounding me in a moment of reflection amidst the waiting crowd.

As the tableau finally came into view, its colours and music reminded me that while times change and moments pass, Fort Cochin’s heart beats steadily, carrying forward the legacy of countless New Year celebrations and the memories of folks who visited and those who lived here since Vasco Da Gama died  500 years ago  on the Christmas eve  of 1524.

The carnival may have been quieter this year, but its spirit endures—etched into the soul of this town and into the hearts of all who have walked these streets.

500 Years since Vasco Da Gama 's arrival!

A heartfelt memorial and reflection on Vasco da Gama's legacy and the enduring Catholic community of our land.

Commemorating 500 Years of Vasco da Gama's Legacy

Christmas Eve, 2024

Five centuries ago, on Christmas Eve of 1524, one of history’s greatest navigators, Vasco da Gama, took his final breath in this very town. Known as the pioneer of the sea route to India, Vasco da Gama’s voyages changed the course of history, bridging two distant worlds and laying the foundation for centuries of cultural, economic, and spiritual exchange.

The incredible Portuguese Caravel by the name Sao Gabriel in which Vasco Da Gama sailed to India as drawn by the artist Ernesto Casanova (1845 - )

In life, Vasco da Gama was driven by the call to explore, to connect, and to expand horizons. His arrival in India in 1498 marked the beginning of a profound chapter in the history of this land. But his death here in 1524, far from his homeland, marked the completion of his extraordinary journey—a journey that not only linked continents but also left an enduring legacy in this community.

After his death, his remains were laid to rest in this town, sanctifying the soil with the presence of a man whose voyages reshaped the world. Though his son later repatriated his remains to Portugal in 1538, the significance of his final days here remains etched into the history of this place.

A Legacy of Faith and Resilience

Vasco da Gama's arrival heralded the beginning of Catholicism in this region. Missionaries and priests followed in his wake, spreading the Gospel and establishing a thriving Catholic community. Over the centuries, this faith has flourished, weathering the storms of time with resilience and grace. Today, the Catholic population in this town stands as a living testament to the spiritual seeds planted during Vasco da Gama’s time.

Churches, some centuries old, dot the landscape, their bells ringing out with a timeless call to prayer and devotion. The vibrant celebrations of Christmas, Easter, and feast days continue to bind the community together, preserving traditions while embracing modernity. The influence of Catholicism is deeply woven into the cultural fabric of this town, visible in its festivals, architecture, and the enduring spirit of its people.

500 Years On: Honoring the Past, Celebrating the Present

As we gather on this Christmas Eve of 2024, we pause to remember Vasco da Gama, whose life and death connect this town to a larger global story. We honor his legacy, not only as a navigator of uncharted waters but as a bridge between civilizations.

We also celebrate the strength and vitality of the Catholic community that continues to thrive here—a community rooted in faith, guided by hope, and united in love. The enduring presence of this faith reminds us of the shared values that bind humanity across time and geography: compassion, service, and the search for meaning.

Looking to the Future

On this quincentenary of Vasco da Gama's passing, let us reflect on the enduring legacy of his journeys. May his story inspire us to build bridges rather than barriers, to seek understanding across differences, and to celebrate the richness of our shared humanity.

And as we light candles in our homes and churches this Christmas Eve, let us remember the light that Vasco da Gama’s voyage brought to this town—a light that continues to shine brightly through the faith and fellowship of its people.

May the memory of Vasco da Gama, and the thriving Catholic community he left behind, guide us into the future with hope and unity.

November 30

A lone candle burning at a cemetery of a church in Kochi.

Some of the churches had some events planned on the end of November 30th. The month is marked for remembering the dead in many of the churches. All Saints & All Souls Day at the beginning of the month, then the Remembrance Day and in some countries the Thanks Giving Day. In a historical Coastal town like Fort Cohin/Kochi, where thousands of people from different countries had visited over the centuries for various reasons, many of them lay buried here. As the month of November passes, we remember gratefully all those who had brought a positive change to our people thoughts and lives. May you all Rest in Peace.