362 years and still waiting for their Masters..

Fort Cochin, with its cobblestone streets and colonial-era architecture, holds stories that transcend time. Among them is the tale of the Kappiri—a symbol of resilience, history, and remembrance.

During the Portuguese rule, enslaved Africans, locally called Kappiri, were brought to the Malabar Coast. These individuals lived through immense hardship, shaping the region’s history in ways often overlooked. When the Dutch seized Fort Cochin in 1663, folklore says that wealthy Portuguese buried their treasures underground. To protect these riches, they reportedly buried their loyal Kappiri guards alongside, tying their spirits to the land forever.

Far from being seen as ominous, the Kappiri are remembered with respect and even reverence. Small shrines, known as Kappiri Muthappan, still stand across Fort Cochin. Locals light candles at these shrines, honoring the memory of those who lived and suffered in a tumultuous era.

The story of the Kappiri isn’t just about loss—it’s about resilience and the deep layers of history that make Fort Cochin what it is today. It’s a reminder of the lives and cultures that shaped this land and the importance of acknowledging their stories.

Have you ever visited one of these shrines or heard about the Kappiri? 

November 30

A lone candle burning at a cemetery of a church in Kochi.

Some of the churches had some events planned on the end of November 30th. The month is marked for remembering the dead in many of the churches. All Saints & All Souls Day at the beginning of the month, then the Remembrance Day and in some countries the Thanks Giving Day. In a historical Coastal town like Fort Cohin/Kochi, where thousands of people from different countries had visited over the centuries for various reasons, many of them lay buried here. As the month of November passes, we remember gratefully all those who had brought a positive change to our people thoughts and lives. May you all Rest in Peace.

Remembrance Day

November 11th

The Kerala School Sports & Games 2024

The meet is on at different venues in the district and the athletic events will be held at the Maharajas College Ground.

For those tourists who like to meet the participating students, their teachers, parents who are from the different districts of Kerala, the event is a good opportunity. 

Take a customised tour with us, ideally from 4pm in the afternoon to 8pm or till the end of the events and dinner afterwards from your favourite city restaurant. 

The pick up can be arranged from the water metro Jetty and drop back to Fort Kochi in a car. 

Durham Miners' Banners

Durham Miners’ Gala

Solidarity forever! Banners of the Durham mining community.

Commemorating the 40th anniversary of the Miners’ strike of 1984-85 and celebrating the continuity, solidarity of the Durham Mining Communities a colorful selection of the banners from the region’s many Union Lodges were displayed at the Durham Cathedral recently.

Banners are described as the regimental colors of the National Union of Mineworkers. Banners were proudly carried at the Miners celebrations, protests and other events. Banners are made of silk and hand painted on both sides to display the name of their colliery lodge, along with other religious or political images. Many banners are still in use with their communities and are paraded through the streets of Durham on Gala day in July. They are joined by the banners of other trade Unions and groups linked to the mining communities such as the Women’s Support Groups.

The North East of England has a long history of coal mining. Centuries ago coal was used by the Romans while they occupied England. Mining activity is recorded in the Boldon book of 1183. Durham and the cathedral were at the heart of coal mining activity in the region, the industry endured for more than 9 centuries.

John Doyle’s ‘A cross in Coal’ emotionally expresses the sentiments in literary works of the time:

 ‘For here beneath dear Durham Skies live men, I understood, bound fast in friendship by the ties of pitman brotherhood…”

The Miners’ Gala started as a demonstration of Miners Solidarity to make their employers aware that they were united and would stand up for their rights. It was held every year and over the decades ‘the big meeting’ became the largest unofficial miners and trade union gathering in the UK.

Eventually the deep mines in the North East of England were closed but the Gala has survived as the Region’s mining heritage and attracting tens of thousands of visitors to Durham in July the month in which the Gala is held every year. It symbolizes celebration of a community, international solidarity and working class life.

On the afternoon of the Gala day a Miners’ Festival Service has been held at the Durham Cathedral. New Union and Lodge Banners are dedicated and blessed by the Bishop of Durham.

The pictures and information was sent to us by Ms.Catherine Henderson a Durham resident who has never missed a Gala of the last few decades. She took the Fort Cochin Heritage Walk in 2017 and has stayed a friend since. 

Christmas Eve

On the Christmas eve of 1524, Vasco Da Gama, the greatest of all the sailors, on his third visit to India, died at Fort Cochin and was buried at the historical church of St. Francis. 496 years, since.

Vasco Da Gama

Worlds Most prestigious documents by UNESCO, "Memory of World Register" established in 1992, contains 299 documents from five continents. One of them is Vasco Da Gama's hand written journal of his first voyage to India during which he arrived at Calicut on May 20th of 1498. It is written by a mysterious man aboard the ship and contains the misfortunes and triumphs of the voyage sharing in words every step taken by the adventurous sea man and his crew. Undoubtedly an exciting read about the incidents that changed the history of the world. The journal contains first hand witnessing of treason, diseases, meeting with our ancestors, war equipments, animals, plants, trees, musical and nautical instruments, food, villages, difficult navigational situations etc and also Portuguese words for the Calicut words.

Vasco's sea route

Vasco Da Gama was lucky to find a Mohmedian navigator from the eastern coast of Africa, Ahmad Ibin Majid, who guided Vasco to India. Arab sailors were experts sailors in the Indian Ocean and they knew the routes they were sailing for centuries very well. 

Vasco's second visit in 1502 was more guided by the economies of trade, religion and politics to establish a foothold and monopoly trading rights for his King and country and is marred with events of brutality as he confronted Mohmedians whom he saw again on the Malabar Coast, the very traders and their religion Vasco's country was in war with in Europe. 

After Vasco's return to Portugal in 1503, Francisco De Almeida, established a fruitful contact with the Kochi Kings attaining more than a foothold and trading rights and they increased their influence all around the Indian coast. Almeida was made the first Governor and Viceroy of Portuguese India in 1505.

Vasco Da Gama came again in 1524, on his third visit as Viceroy, but fell sick and died on the Christmas Eve.

The illustrious Mariner was bestowed with Hereditary Royal Pension, Dom status (Lord), the title of Admiral of the Seas of Arabia, Persia, India and all the Orient. After 16 years from his death, Vasco's remains were taken back to Portugal by his son and is enshrined in a fitting mausoleum in Jeronimo Monastery, his country's everlasting tribute to the greatest among the ones who have sailed the seas. 

Reference:
Economic Times, June 20, 2013
http://www.mosteirojeronimos.gov.pt/en/

Data Quest and PC Quest have been nostalgic technology magazines which we have grown up with when technology was slowly creeping into our lives and the news and information about the developments were not easily available. These magazines in the 90's were great source of information. Who would have thought one day Mr. Shyam & Mrs. Seema Malhothra would take our walk in Fort Cochin. Seen here in the picture is our walkers with Barbara and Zelda, the artists from Italy on a tour around India.

 

It was also a good start for us and our presenter who has just returned from a semester long lecture at a tourism college in Nellore.

Happy New Year, Friends, may we continue to give our best in everything we do.

 

 

 

Muchillotu Devi

Perinchellore was an old town famous for its scholarly Brahmans who were very good in the knowledge of Vedas, grammar, literature, astrology, medicine etc.. Scholars from all over came to Perinchellore to debate with the Brahmans there to test their own erudition. One such family in Perinchellore was Rayaramangalam. It so happened with them that the latest generation had no male heirs to continue their family lineage. They prayed to their family goddess by offering special Puja. Soon they got a daughter but not a son. Sensing a divine intervention the parents accepted her gratefully and named DeviKanya. They brought her up giving her the best they had including education.

The girl grew up to be a scholar, naturally,  and her erudition spread among the scholarly circle of  the area in spite of being a girl. It was the custom at that time for the Brahman girls to be married off at the age of 12. Devi's parents proposed her the marriage and she agreed but on one condition. She will marry the man who will defeat her in a scholarly debate. Her parents had to agree and the marriage day was fixed.

Many scholars came from far and wide both young and old. For two days nobody could defeat Devi. This was a blow to the Scholars of Perinchellore to be defeated and that too by a girl. For her parents she was a divine child but for others she was a mere girl who has to be shown her place in the world. So on the third day they deliberately guided the debate to the topic of Rasas which are the human feelings. They asked her which is the most significant of the Rasas to which Devi correctly replied as Sringara or erotic love. Then the scholars asked which is the most painful of the Rasas. Devi had no hesitation in saying it is the pain of child birth experienced by women.

The Brahman scholars were enraged. They asked how can a virgin know all these feelings without experiencing it. They felt she is not a kanya (Virgin) and proclaimed the punishment due to such a woman for the innocent Devi. She was outclassed and expelled from the community.

Though heartbroken, her parents could not do anything against the decision of the community. Devi walked away from her house, her village and went straight to the temple at EachiKulangara and entered into a deep meditative prayer of forty days. At the end of it she woke up with the realization that she had to leave her body to prove her innocence. At the Brahma Muhurtham, that is thirty six minutes before sun rise she prayed her final prayer and went to a place called Karivellore and made herself  a pyre and jumped into the fire after taking off one of her anklet and leaving it near the pyre.

Alas! The fire was not enough to burn her body completely as it lost its flame midway. After a while a coconut tree climber from the lower caste was passing by carrying some dry fronds and Devi called out to him asking him to put the dry palm leaves into her fire. The man was frightened by the terrific site, he ran away without looking back.

Next came that way a man from the Muchilottu community. Another lower caste community who deal in oil which was more important than electricity in those days. Devi asked him to pour the oil  that he was carrying in a pot into her pyre. Though terrified the man sensed a certain divinity in the stoic Devi and poured oil into the fire hoping it would put off the fire. Instead the fire was set ablaze again and the Devi disappeared into it after blessing him. From then on the Devi has been deified as the Goddess of the Muchillottu community and celebrated as Theyyam every year to this day.

The Telegraph

We are happy to note "The Telegraph" have mentioned in their travel article FCHW's presenter Biju Thomas (Historian & Incredible India's Regional Level Guide)  as the guide to be with while touring around our historic Kochi (Cochin).

With due respect to the author Gill Charlton and what we have learned from her the day she spent with us we reaffirm our resolve to be in love with our Fort Cochin and continue to offer specialised and customised historical and cultural tour to those who come seeking to  know more about our home town, sharing with them what we know already and continue to learn about our home town everyday.

The Telegraph's Ultimate Itinerary - South India

Please check out  for the Day 13. Yes! Thirteen. :)

Celebrity Constellation

Susan Pegrum and her friends took a spin tour of Cochin with us the day Celebrity Constellation called on our Cochin Port. We did a special one for her which was quite different from the ones that were on offer for the shore excursion her cruise had listed.

The day turned out to be rather warm and nice with less humidity which was perhaps the best day for the tour. 

Apart from the usual Cochin sites and the history we went out to the neighbouring fishing villages and saw the boats  which they have seen while Constellation sailed up to Cochin from Colombo on her day long cruise from port to port. 

When the sun was too high we took a break at Old Light house Bristow hotel for lunch which by far has the best view of the Arabian sea. 

As the sun slowly went down and the shadows got longer we reached the pier just in time for Susan and her friends to have a look around at the shop malls which was set up along the wharf. 

Constellation is an awesome ship, we could see her towering over the tree tops from all over Kochi. 

Gill Charlton

We had the incredible honour of taking around our hero and idol Ms. Gill Charlton of 'The Telegraph" on a Fort Cochin Heritage Walk and a Kochi City Tour.

Just like her engaging writing and the best information she offers to her readers and travellers about a city or a country she introduces, she was highly observant and had a splendid memory. She could even recollect the remotest corners of our town from a visit 15 years ago.

Thank you Gill for finding us and deciding to spend your day in our historic Cochin with us. It was a learning experience which we thoroughly enjoyed. 

New Year @ Fort Cochin

Traditionally, on New year day, everyone around Kochi goes to the Fort and the beach near it. That is an unbroken tradition. Our most colorful memories of childhood are around this Cochin ritual. 

This year though, the spirit was glum with Cyclone Ockhi and its disastrous aftermath. The authorities who run the Carnival had to shift the venue to Parade ground from the beach as there was no beach this year. The high tide and the rising sea after the storm had taken over the beach which used to be the venue for many events of the Christmas and New year Celebration at the fort. 

Burning of the Pappanji at the Parade Ground on New year eve, the last event of the year. 

Ofcourse, the children got the best view. :)

Tourists finding vantage points on their hotel walls for better photo opportunity of the carnival procession. 

The long evening lights keeping the spirits up on the New year evening at River Road, Fort Cochin. 

All around the Fort streets locals and tourist were waiting patiently for the carnival procession to arrive. 

Christmas @ Fort Cochin

Christmas is the most happiest time of the year at the Fort. It has always been so. The joy, the hope and the feeling of well being is lit with stars and lights all around the Fort. It's also the peak time of tourism. The best of the home made wines and cakes are served in the houses during Christmas. The home stays of Fort Cochin exude a special charm during the season. 

The week preceding the Christmas week saw shops selling Christmas gifts and lamps all over the place. The china made beautiful lights and stars were the main attraction. 

Merry Christmas Everyone. 

Christmas carol service at St. Francis Church

The notice announcing the Carol Service was put up outside the church weeks earlier. For hundreds of tourists who visit our historic church everyday, the advance notice was very helpful.

This year's Christmas carol service was conducted at St. Francis church yesterday on 17th December, 2017 at 6pm.

Beautifully printed Carol Service notes, with songs and readings markers.

The service was lead by Rev. N.K Prasad, the resident Chaplain and the message was delivered by Rev. Dr. David Joy.

The choir which was the soul of the evening included both the junior and senior members of the CSI church.

The carol service at this historic church was attended by not only the parishioners but also all the history enthusiasts and the tourists who were in town. The first ever catholic Christmas in India was celebrated in this very church in the first decade of 1500's.

The occasion marked the beginning of the Christmas celebration in the erstwhile fort in its true spirit.

Beautiful evening, wonderful memory when our old church came back to life again. 

Civet Coffee

Coorg Consolidated Commodities have started manufacturing the world's most expensive Coffee. Though India is the third largest producer of Coffee in the world, this new start up is the first one to try making coffee from the excrement of a cat which the world considers as the best coffee.
Civet loves the ripe coffee berries and feast on them. It actually eats only the fleshy part and sends out the nuts covered in its digestive enzymes as Civet excretion. These are picked by farmers and processed. The enzymes give the nut the special flavour the rich world has fallen in love with.
Civet coffee is priced between ₹20000-₹25000 for a kilo at present.
CCC is selling it locally at Mahindra's Madagiri resort in coorg. The area comes under the Nilgiri-Coorg circuit of Karnataka tourism.

IITTM Nellore

When the Professor from IITTM, Nellore called asking us to take around their latest postgraduate batch in tourism for a heritage walk around Fort Kochi, we were delighted. Ofcourse,  being an Alumini, it is always a pleasure to reunite with the faculty and students once again. But the most interesting aspect of these academic tours are the intense curiosity and eagerness of the students to know more about a destination they are visiting. There is always something new we learn on the tour with students, like how to present a theme in a new way especially when the students in the group are from all over India.

Thank You IITTM and students, we wish you the very best and hope to see you back here as dashing professionals.

PS: In the background in the picture, we can see a mother and son whom we met at Paradesi Synagogoe. She was from America and was visiting her son who is working in Delhi and both of them had decided to come on a tour to Kerala.  Our students were quick to spot his adopted famous Indian head wobble which he gladly acknowledged as a fond local influence.

The whistle

The Ikka (brother) of the fish stall near the Promenade at Fort Cochin whistles beautifully and never fails to attract everyone who walk by his stall. Here Mrs Lou Potts, a teacher from England, was so kind to pose with him for a picture. She specifically asked me to print a copy of this picture for him. Thank You, Lou, just as you promised hope to see you next year.

Vishu

Yellow themed prosperity festival, which marks the beginning of the year, is one of the dearest and favourite festivals in Kerala. Everyone wakes up early and bows before the preset bowl of abundance which has all the summer harvest produce - Mangoes, jackfruit, flowers, kumkum and the idol of lovely Krishna. An auspicious way of starting the new year, Vishu also denotes the summer equinox.

In the 9th Century, the Travancore King convened a meeting of the scholars and set the calendar with few changes and started anew. So in Kerala, unlike the rest of the country, the new year starts in Chingam, the malayalam month, which falls in August - September in the Onam days.

The festival is a great way to connect with the past when life was more nature bound, the typical phrases and the entertainment involved in these days are great nostalgic reminders of the days and the people who went by.

Kochi Muziris Biennale 2014

As Historians and those who share the history of Fort Cochin with many who visit Fort Cochin everyday, Kochi Muziris Biennale is a pleasant surprise and joy for us. The event has put Kochi back in the lime light as it was when it was termed as "Emporium of the world" by travellers in the early centuries. KMB foundation has made Kochi the art emporium which everyone is talking about and visiting. The first few days so so many artists, writers, scholars and many visitors at the venue and all of them are just happy as we are about the way Kochi has become the platform for the contemplations on history and finding a new language to express it.

Wonderful effort KMB foundation. Congratulations team KMB. We love our Biennale.

World Tourism Day 2014

Kerala remains the most literate state. Our effort to educate everyone in the state started very early. Fort Cochin Heritage Walkers, infront of Santa Cruz High School, which was started in the year 1888 at #FortCochin. 

Our first walk on the world Tourism Day of 2014 was a learning experience for us indeed. We got a lot of helpful tips and advice from our walkers who were very enthusiastic travellers who have explored our country  very well and has travelled abroad and has been part of many heritage walks in different parts of the world. 

We gladly acknowledge their good heart and experience they shared with us happily.