Saturday 27 October 2018

Muchillotu Devi


Perinchellore was an old town famous for its scholarly Brahmans who were very good in the knowledge of Vedas, grammar, literature, astrology, medicine etc.. Scholars from all over came to Perinchellore to debate with the Brahmans there to test their own erudition. One such family in Perinchellore was Rayaramangalam. It so happened with them that the latest generation had no male heirs to continue their family lineage. They prayed to their family goddess by offering special Puja. Soon they got a daughter but not a son. Sensing a divine intervention the parents accepted her gratefully and named DeviKanya. They brought her up giving her the best they had including education.

The girl grew up to be a scholar, naturally,  and her erudition spread among the scholarly circle of  the area in spite of being a girl. It was the custom at that time for the Brahman girls to be married off at the age of 12. Devi's parents proposed her the marriage and she agreed but on one condition. She will marry the man who will defeat her in a scholarly debate. Her parents had to agree and the marriage day was fixed.

Many scholars came from far and wide both young and old. For two days nobody could defeat Devi. This was a blow to the Scholars of Perinchellore to be defeated and that too by a girl. For her parents she was a divine child but for others she was a mere girl who has to be shown her place in the world. So on the third day they deliberately guided the debate to the topic of Rasas which are the human feelings. They asked her which is the most significant of the Rasas to which Devi correctly replied as Sringara or erotic love. Then the scholars asked which is the most painful of the Rasas. Devi had no hesitation in saying it is the pain of child birth experienced by women.

The Brahman scholars were enraged. They asked how can a virgin know all these feelings without experiencing it. They felt she is not a kanya (Virgin) and proclaimed the punishment due to such a woman for the innocent Devi. She was outclassed and expelled from the community.

Though heartbroken, her parents could not do anything against the decision of the community. Devi walked away from her house, her village and went straight to the temple at EachiKulangara and entered into a deep meditative prayer of forty days. At the end of it she woke up with the realization that she had to leave her body to prove her innocence. At the Brahma Muhurtham, that is thirty six minutes before sun rise she prayed her final prayer and went to a place called Karivellore and made herself  a pyre and jumped into the fire after taking off one of her anklet and leaving it near the pyre.

Alas! The fire was not enough to burn her body completely as it lost its flame midway. After a while a coconut tree climber from the lower caste was passing by carrying some dry fronds and Devi called out to him asking him to put the dry palm leaves into her fire. The man was frightened by the terrific site, he ran away without looking back.

Next came that way a man from the Muchilottu community. Another lower caste community who deal in oil which was more important than electricity in those days. Devi asked him to pour the oil  that he was carrying in a pot into her pyre. Though terrified the man sensed a certain divinity in the stoic Devi and poured oil into the fire hoping it would put off the fire. Instead the fire was set ablaze again and the Devi disappeared into it after blessing him. From then on the Devi has been deified as the Goddess of the Muchillottu community and celebrated as Theyyam every year to this day.

Wednesday 20 June 2018

The Telegraph

We are happy to note "The Telegraph" have mentioned in their travel article FCHW's presenter Biju Thomas (Historian & Incredible India's Regional Level Guide)  as the guide to be with while touring around our historic Kochi (Cochin).

With due respect to the author Gill Charlton and what we have learned from her the day she spent with us we reaffirm our resolve to be in love with our Fort Cochin and continue to offer specialised and customised historical and cultural tour to those who come seeking to  know more about our home town, sharing with them what we know already and continue to learn about our home town everyday.

The Telegraph's Ultimate Itinerary - South India

Please check out  for the Day 13. Yes! Thirteen. :)



Tuesday 6 March 2018

Celebrity Constellation

Susan Pegrum and her friends took a spin tour of Cochin with us the day Celebrity Constellation called on our Cochin Port. We did a special one for her which was quite different from the ones that were on offer for the shore excursion her cruise had listed.

The day turned out to be rather warm and nice with less humidity which was perhaps the best day for the tour. 
Apart from the usual Cochin sites and the history we went out to the neighbouring fishing villages and saw the boats  which they have seen while Constellation sailed up to Cochin from Colombo on her day long cruise from port to port. 
When the sun was too high we took a break at Old Light house Bristow hotel for lunch which by far has the best view of the Arabian sea. 
As the sun slowly went down and the shadows got longer we reached the pier just in time for Susan and her friends to have a look around at the shop malls which was set up along the wharf. 
Constellation is an awesome ship, we could see her towering over the tree tops from all over Kochi. 







Thursday 22 February 2018

Gill Charlton



We had the incredible honour of taking around our hero and idol Ms. Gill Charlton of 'The Telegraph" on a Fort Cochin Heritage Walk and a Kochi City Tour.

Just like her engaging writing and the best information she offers to her readers and travellers about a city or a country she introduces, she was highly observant and had a splendid memory. She could even recollect the remotest corners of our town from a visit 15 years ago.

Thank you Gill for finding us and deciding to spend your day in our historic Cochin with us. It was a learning experience which we thoroughly enjoyed. 

Wednesday 3 January 2018

New Year @ Fort Cochin

Traditionally, on New year day, everyone around Kochi goes to the Fort and the beach near it. That is an unbroken tradition. Our most colorful memories of childhood are around this Cochin ritual. 

This year though, the spirit was glum with Cyclone Ockhi and its disastrous aftermath. The authorities who run the Carnival had to shift the venue to Parade ground from the beach as there was no beach this year. The high tide and the rising sea after the storm had taken over the beach which used to be the venue for many events of the Christmas and New year Celebration at the fort. 

Burning of the Pappanji at the Parade Ground on New year eve, the last event of the year. 


Ofcourse, the children got the best view. :)

Tourists finding vantage points on their hotel walls for better photo opportunity of the carnival procession. 

The long evening lights keeping the spirits up on the New year evening at River Road, Fort Cochin. 

All around the Fort streets locals and tourist were waiting patiently for the carnival procession to arrive. 

Christmas @ Fort Cochin

Christmas is the most happiest time of the year at the Fort. It has always been so. The joy, the hope and the feeling of well being is lit with stars and lights all around the Fort. It's also the peak time of tourism. The best of the home made wines and cakes are served in the houses during Christmas. The home stays of Fort Cochin exude a special charm during the season. 
The week preceding the Christmas week saw shops selling Christmas gifts and lamps all over the place. The china made beautiful lights and stars were the main attraction. 



Merry Christmas Everyone. 

Farewell 2020

Long ago, Thomas Carlyle, told, " A man must get his happiness out of his work. His first of the many  problems is to find the work he ...